The Old Church - a restaurant review

On the few occasions we dine out these days we are usually content to avail ourselves of fare locally offered. On Saturday evening, however, a dear friend insisted on taking us 'out to tea' at a restaurant located in Meanee Road near Taradale.

We arrived at The Old Church at dusk. I thought we had been taken to a fairyland; this superb old Catholic church was beautifully lit achieving a fine balance between the exterior lighting and what we could see of the interior showing through the stained glass windows. To one side rows of vines were draped generously with strings of miniature lamps adding to the magic illusion.

Inside we were conducted through to our table, velvet-covered seats, two of them high-backed wizards chairs. Once comfortably seated we were able to drink in our surroundings. The furnishings and fittings were a superb combination of quite eclectic elements, some quasi-religious like the abstract Mary high above where the alter would have been, made of a couple of pieces of draped cloth skilfully arranged to suggest a feminine form, through to exotic hanging lamps that would have been quite at home in a harem. Softly polished wooden tables with elegant modern place settings, lovely glassware. A big space with lots of interest and discreet goings on as serving staff attended tables and seated new arrivals.

Our maitre d' was relaxed, personable and attentive. Waiting for the menu is always a bit like being in a theatre waiting for the curtain to go up and the show to begin.  We were well pleased with the bill of fare - fourteen starters, thirteen main courses, a lovely potpourri of well chosen ingredients each dish distinctively different in all ways from the one preceding it. Our host and I ordered Pan Roasted Crispy Skin Salmon with Seafood Ravioli, Green Pea Puree and Tomato Dressing, his wife settled on Oyster 3 Ways: Bloody Mary Oyster Shooter, Natural, Cucumber and Chive Vinaigrette Wasabi Caviar, my lovely wife ordered Tomato Mozzarella and Basil Wood Fired Pizza. Our starters were all superbly prepared and presented. It is good when there is a slight tinge of regret after consuming the contents of an especially good plate. Ah, well, the main courses were yet to come.

Our host ordered Pan Roasted Ocean Catch of the Day with Prawns and Nicoise, Agria potato, Beans, Mushrooms, Zucchine and Roma Tomatoes. I had Hawkes Bay Roasted Lamb Rack with Herb Potato Mash, Buttered Green Beans, Roasted Tomato and Lamb Jus. The ladies both ordered the chef's signature dish - Braised Pork Belly and Loin with a Medley of Hawkes Bay Seasonal Vegetables. I am afraid that I can only use superlatives all the way, and be assured I am NOT being paid to write this! I have cooked good lamb loin for many punters over the years but I have to confess somewhat red-facedly that I just didn't know that lamb could be THAT tender.

The portion sizes were perfectly judged - I could have coaxed down some dessert from the very attractive sweets on offer but we settled for coffee, good coffee I might add.

An evening well spent in good company and a dining experience second to none. Cost? About $60 per head and worth every penny. Highly recommended, guaranteed to impress.